Yellowstone National Park- In the Winter (Pre Kids, 2012)

Yellowstone National Park Winter 2012

Yellowstone is a magical place any time of year. In fact, it is my absolute favorite place in the world. I have been there at least 7 times including twice in the winter. And the winter is AMAZING!! It may not occur to you to go to in the winter but let me explain why you SHOULD!!!

Many of the roads through Yellowstone close in the late Fall due to snow and don't open again until late Spring (in fact, we have been there in late May/early June and roads have still been closed). However, during a few magical months in the middle of the winter, you can travel to Yellowstone via Snow Cat. The snowfall is so dense that the roads aren't plowed, rather they are packed down so they can be traversed by these specialized vehicles.

Snow Cat

The two times we visited we flew into Bozeman, made the easy drive down to Mammoth Hot Springs (this road is reliably open) and stayed at the national park lodge there (which is wonderful, has great food, highly recommend). There are opportunities for both walking/hiking and skiing around the Mammoth Hot Springs. Which brings us to reason #1 to go to Yellowstone in the Winter.

REASON NUMBER 1 TO GO TO YELLOWSTONE IN THE WINTER: YOU HAVE THE VIEWS TO YOURSELF!!!

Nearly everywhere you go, you will be the only one there. For those new to Yellowstone, the park has so much to see and do and to be clear the 'major' sites are only a minority of what's on offer here. But the major sites are major for a reason- they are breathtaking and incredible. But, admittedly, the sheer numbers of other people checking those views out in the summer can be detracting. Here's a sampling of some major sites that we had to ourselves:

Mammoth Hot Springs (some were frozen)- Upper Terrace Loop Trail

Grand Prismatic

Old Faithful. This is not a trick camera angle.
Adam and I are THE ONLY PEOPLE HERE.

Roaring Mountain

Also note that the sites are DIFFERENT in the winter! The blend of cold/snow/ice with geysers and other thermal features makes for some awe inspiring and even eerie scenes:

From the Mammoth Hot Springs Lodge you can take a Snow Cat to the Snow Lodge at Old Faithful. There are 3 lodges in the Old Faithful complex- the historic Old Faithful Lodge itself, the Old Faithful Lodge Cabins and the Snow Lodge. Only the latter is open in the winter (and happens to be our favorite for any time of year as well, fyi. The Historic Old Faithful Lodge is worth a visit and a dine in the dining room, but no need to stay as it so much more expensive and no nicer than the Snow Lodge.) The Snow Cat trip from Mammoth to Old Faithful is a few hours/half day but is ABSOLUTELY AMAZING. The best few hours you've had in months, I promise. There are multiple stops for sights and wildlife which brings us to......


REASON NUMBER 2 TO GO TO YELLOWSTONE IN THE WINTER: THE WILDLIFE

Another Snow Cat

There is no shortage of wildlife any time of year in Yellowstone and we've had fantastic luck on past trips with wildlife viewing, but the winter is different. In the winter the animals behave differently. They flock to rather than avoid the roads as it is an easier route for them to traverse. There are so few people that many otherwise usually skittish animals are out in full display. Many animals are in energy conservation mode so they are loathe to move around much unless they are in search of food. And, I think I mentioned this before 😀, you have the place- and the animals- to yourselves!!

Bison move snow with their heads
so they can reach the grass below.

The Snow Cat will stop for any interesting animal sightings. We were able to watch a red fox pouncing in the snow (presumably there was a mouse below), a family of coyotes eating a kill, and - one of the most amazing experiences of my life- we were in the middle of a bison stampede!! We saw a herd of bison by the river so we stopped to observe and next thing we know they were running straight toward us! The ground shook, they ran mere feet from our vehicle. And eerily....no sound other than grunting and breathing. The snow made the run silent. Absolutely incredible. We didn't know the other folks driving with us, but man, there was a palpable bond in that car knowing we together witnessed such an incredible natural event.

Bison Stampede!

Elk showing us snow depth

Coyote family

Coyote

Red Fox

Firehole River

Once you get to Old Faithful and the Snow Lodge there is no shortage of outdoor activities. There is cross country skiing, snow shoeing, hiking (with proper boots) though the options for traditional hiking are a bit limited due to snow depth (need snow shoes for many routes). (Hiking would be fine for a person who wants to just walk around a bit right on the Old Faithful campus or the road but you probably won't get more than a mile from the lodge that way- for some people that is enough). There are also guided tours in the Snow Cat during the day and at night. I think a night tour would be INCREDIBLE, I've just never been willing to sacrifice sleep to do it, but maybe next time! There is a small ice skating rink.

A couple points about logistics. You can bring in some snacks and maybe breakfast items that don't need refrigeration, but mostly you will be eating all meals at the Snow Lodge. Food is fine, wine is good. Just factor that in to cost. We have done this trip twice but both before kids. We will take our kids, but my recommendation would be to wait until they are at least 8 years old and then only if your 8 year old is outdoor loving. It is cold and most of the action is outside. So if you have an 8 year old who trends toward getting cold and is not a fan of skiing or hiking, you are going to have a tough time with your usual bribes of trail snacks (hard to access with mittens and a bit cold for frequent stopping) or "hey we can swim in the pool later" (there's no pool). So, take the kids, but think carefully about when. Also, it's remote. Not a deal breaker, but you do have to consider basic safety. If you were to get stuck (as our snow cat did, but was rescued within 45 minutes), would your kid be warm enough and fit enough to be outside for a prolonged period of time? We will go once our youngest is 8.

Failed attempt to pull out the Cat. Another vehicle came by
and towed us out within an hour. It was interesting!

If you or one of the adults in your party is not very outdoorsy, that's okay. The general rhythm of our days was: get up have breakfast, outdoor activity, regroup at lunch,  another outdoor activity, early happy hour/dinner, after dinner reading or game, then bed. So a person not inclined toward outdoor winter fun (in my book, this is a crazy person, but I know they exist, no judgement!!), could go for a short walk, or a snow cat tour, or just chose to sit by the fire and read. They would be fine and the amazing Snow Cat drives and views from inside would be worth it for all adults and even older kids.

But really, national parks are to be enjoyed from the outside so.......

REASON NUMBER 3 TO GO TO YELLOWSTONE IN THE WINTER: TO EXPERIENCE SOME OF THE MOST AMAZING CROSS COUNTRY SKIING.

So let's say you've bought into how great this but aren't a skier? Really, don't despair. There are many, many easy trails (read no hills). You will be fine taking some short cross country skis. But you will be missing out if you aren't willing to go say 2-4 miles. That's where the magic really is:) So consider getting some cross country skiing under your belt at home so you don't miss out on experiences like these:

Canyon Rim Ski Trail 

Canyon Rim Trail. The wolves were on the ridge on the other side

You can drive to this trail from the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel (there are also ski shuttles one could take, I believe). It is a 4.5 mile lollipop trail that follows the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River. The trail is mostly wide and flat. The most distant part is a loop that goes through the woods, up hill a bit then down a nice enjoyable wide straight downhill. I am NOT a good skier. I am a experienced beginning with poor form and no ability to turn while going downhill (or moving at all really). I say experienced only because I've been on skies nearly every year of my adult life, but only one or two times, only cross country, and I'm not very good. But I did fine on this. If you are a true true beginner and are hesitant you could just skip the most distant little loop and treat it as a true out and back.


In additional to the AWE INSPIRING views, we were treated to bison just feet from us and were able to view 45 minutes of active wolf activity. We saw a den of wolves playing and interacting. They were howling. It was amazing. We had our motion control binoculars (if you don't have some of these get some) and were able to watch the whole thing from a not far- but perfectly safe- distance because they were on the other side of the canyon. Only in winter. Just us and the wolves.

The bison have no interest in moving in the cold. If you don't
bother them they won't bother you, but be cautious of course. 

Around Old Faithful

There is an extensive boardwalk system around Old Faithful and the many other thermal features right around the lodges. This can easily be walked or snow snowed or skied and is absolutely incredible. I feel like a broken record here but these photos aren't doctored or bobbed and weaved to avoid other humans. Adam and I (and my dad on the trip he joined), were the only folks out here. One morning I went for a run and the ONLY FOOTSTEPS in the fresh now were mine and a coyote who jogged along with me. Contrast that to the busloads of tourists in the summer months.

Me and the coyote

One night we went out to Old Faithful in the dark with our headlamps (you need headlamps- there is really no light). We couldn't see Old Faithful, but we could hear it. The gas, the gurgling, the otherwise completely still silence. Not. To. Be. Missed.

Adam and I were "streaking" (running a mile a day every
day) at the time. Made for some amazing runs!

Lone Star Geyser Trail 

This is a slightly longer (9 mile) out and back that is groomed, straight, flat and easy. Just long. It can be shortened by a couple miles if you take a shuttle to the start rather than skiing straight from the lodge. The trail goes along the Firehole River through the woods (the wind protection is nice). The Lone Star Geyser erupts every 3 hours and there is a journal there where past visitors mark the last eruption (don't expect this to help you predict in the winter when you will likely be the first person there that day!!).

Lone Star Geyser

In summary, Yellowstone in Winter is a must do for any lover of wildlife, national parks, winter, peace, scenery, fresh air, quiet and calm. Really, doesn't everyone love one of those? :)