South Island New Zealand February 2023: Overview

I really enjoy LIVING life more than planning life so in general I do not spend a ton of time on trip planning. I'm a busy, active mother of 3 (9 yo, 5 yo, 9 mo old at time of travel) with a full time high intensity job. I like going on trips more than I like planning trips. I do not feel the need to find the "best" things or to check off boxes of classic to-dos. I find it very helpful to have overarching goals for each trip. And my main goal for this trip was for us to have an awesome time hiking the Queen Charlotte Track (QTC). So the first week of the trip was really dedicated to preparing for (by traveling to the QCT and recovering from jet lag) and hiking the track. Beyond that, I wanted us to spend time as a family enjoying the outdoors. I was willing to fast travel the 2nd week as long as drive times weren't too long and I made sure we had a couple "breaks" were we stayed in the same lodging for 2-3 nights. I wanted us to have new experiences- all of us including the adults- in addition to repeat experiences that Adam and I had previously enjoyed. I booked lodging and then made quick lists including links to possible activities at each stop, but many days I planned on the fly in the car.

Here is our trip in a nutshell.

Day 1/Day 2 Flight from ORD to ALK (Auckland) to WLG (Wellington)

Sky Couch!!!

Air New Zealand is my favorite airline. It's so damn civilized. The staff are kind to adults and children. They feed you excellent meals with GF (gluten free) options and delicious free NZ wines. They wait for you if your connecting flight is late and they COMMUNICATE with security if you are chosen for random additional screening after running your stress sweat butts to make the connection. But the most amazing thing about Air New Zealand, drumroll please, SKY COUCH. When you by TWO economy seats, you can buy a THIRD seat for about a third of the price. The foot rests rise making a full on bed. The kids and I had a FULL NIGHT SLEEP on the 16 hour flight to New Zealand (and back). I slept with 9 mo Fynnie and Adam took one for the team sitting up with Ollie and Zooey cuddled with their legs on him. It was an absolute game changer to arrive in NZ with one adult and all 3 kids relatively fresh with "only" jet lag to deal with, not concurrent sleep deprivation. If you can afford to go to NZ for pleasure you can afford to do this.

One note- read up on the rules to get through Bio-security on arrival to NZ. The default time allotment was 1.5 hours between flights in Auckland and that did not feel like enough. We made it with 5 minutes to spare, but it was quite stressful and maybe just give yourself more time if you can. It's a 10 minute sprint from the International to the Domestic terminal and my kids ran admirably but it's nice to not have to run after a 16 hour flight no matter how rested you are.

Day 2 and 3: Adjust to jet lag in Wellington

We opted to not get a rental car until after the QTC hike. Therefore, I chose a hotel close to the ferry terminal and close to walkable activities specifically the Wellington Botanic Garden, which was just a cable care ride away. We used the SuperShuttle which was easy (no car seats needed) to get to the CityLife Wellington. We asked for early check in and thankfully by the time we arrived and then attempted to re-group to store our luggage to head out for exploring our room was ready. (I'm 99% sure the front desk lady took pity on us and asked them to clean our room stat as we were able to check in at noon; I'm grateful). It was key to have a place with 2 bedrooms and a kitchen to maximize our recovery from travel and jet lag. This was not cheap but was worth it. Both Day 2 and 3 we went to the Wellington Botanic Garden. The first day we just took the cable car up and back and the second day we explored the gardens - the playground and the Discovery Garden. As I write this I realize many people would pack a hell of a lot more into these days but for us downtime and flexibility are so key with so many people with different needs and 3 young kids. This is why we are able to travel and really enjoy it with kids in tow- we set ourselves up for success as much as possible.

Day 3: Ferry to Picton

On the Ferry

We went back to the Wellington Botanic Garden in the morning, had lunch at our room, then took a cab the couple miles to the Interislander ferry terminal to catch our ferry to Picton. I thought we could walk to the terminal- it wasn't the best walk and farther than I realized so we took a car seat less taxi ride. We are pretty serious about car seats, but it felt like a reasonable risk and I'd do it again in similar circumstances (we otherwise did not need a car seat for about a week). The ferry ride from Wellington to Picton is just wonderful. Food, alcohol available, a little playground on board, a movie theatre, even cribs. The views are incredible. We were feeling the jet lag by the end of the journey and while the walk from the ferry to the hotel was 0.5 miles with our fatigue and our luggage (read: 2 sleeping children) it was a challenge. Zooey (9) was a rock star carrying her stuff and her brother's stuff. We made it!

We stayed at Jasmine Court, the same place Adam and I stayed 13 years ago and I recommend it. Good location, good price, we got a 2 bedroom with kitchen and huge living area.

The needed amenities in Picton were walkable- grocery stores, restaurants, mini putting, play ground, marina for our boat to the QTC and car rental for after our return from QTC.

Day 4: Picton

Spent the day resting, playgrounding, organizing, getting set for the hike, and just meeting the kids needs as they came up. It's so so important to build in time and space when traveling with kids or in a group of any kind, really. The day felt full, I think most of us napped(?). We followed the kids whims a bit.

Picton playground

We stopped by the car rental place to see if we could pick up earlier than scheduled on our return from the hike and learned that they don't have rear facing infant seats. (!!!!). This caused a bit of panic. Fynn was 9 mo and thankfully chunky but still clearly rear facing by American car seat standards, and by stated NZ car seat standards as well. NONE of the major rental car companies there had rear facing infant seats. In NZ rear facing are called "capsules" and are apparently very hard to find despite being agreed upon by the NZ government as being recommended until age 2. I talked to Budget corporate and local leadership for the rental car company as well as some local car seat advocates (including a woman who is working to get rental car companies to have rear facing infant seats). It was going to majorly derail our trip plus cost multiple hundreds of dollars to procure a rear facing seat. Fynn thankfully fit really well in the front facing seat and we decided to take the risk. But if you have a little one, really consider bringing your own seat to NZ. The high backed booster for 5 year old was fine.

Day 5: Queen Charlotte Track

Cook's cottage

We caught our Cougar Line water taxi to Resolution Bay at 7:30 AM and walked to Furneaux Lodge (Cook's cottage).

Amazing. See full post here.

View from Punga living room

Day 6: Queen Charlotte Track

Walked from Furneaux Lodge to Punga Cove Resort (Mamaku apartment).

Amazing. See full post here.

Day 7: Water Taxi to Lochmara

Trail hammock

Lochmara is the/an optional next stop walking on the Queen Charlotte Track. However the hike felt a bit too strenuous and long for our current crew. I experimented with having them drop us part way there to shorten it up either that day or the following day but couldn't really find a way to make it work. Ultimately, I decided to keep our hiking experience to 2 days and then just have a fun relaxing day at Lochmara. So we got a private water taxi with Cougar line that took us from Punga Cove to Lochmara. Worked out great for us and we had a lovely day paddle boarding, hiking (there are walks on the grounds with some kitchy interesting finds), playing games, eating. There was an underwater observatory tour that was very cool and I do recommend. I wouldn't say this resort is a mandatory stop. But we enjoyed it and it was absolutely beautiful there.

Bigs and me paddle boarding

Day 8: Water Taxi back to Picton

After more time exploring and relaxing at Lochmara we took a water taxi back to Picton in the afternoon. I had originally booked a cheaper "hostel style with private family room" place but husband appropriately stated this is not the day to skimp as we are coming off trail and needed to get re-organized for the car part of the trip so we cancelled that booking and got a nice Air BnB apartment looking out over the marina. Adam did a grocery stop while I bathed kids and we had a nice dinner and relaxing night.

Day 9: Picton--Punakaiki by car

Punakaiki beach sunset

Knowing we had about a week and half for the rest of the trip, I needed to prioritize a couple regions and decide if we would be driving down the West Coast or the East Coast. The South Island of New Zealand is incredible and you really can't go wrong. You can pick any region of this beautiful land and you will not be disappointed. So don't be overwhelmed by the options. Pick something and do it and know it will be great. If you are an outdoors person, minimize time in cities. We really wanted to take the kids to Milford Sound, remembering how incredible it was when we went 13 years ago and a friend of mine recommended an overnight boat trip on the sound so the available date of that cruise became an anchor for the trip and I built the rest of the itinerary around it. I chose the West Coast as there were some areas we hadn't been to along the way and we opted to skip the Otago Peninsula this time as we had been there last time. I also knew it would be important to have multiple nights in the same lodging to relax and regroup. Aside from the QTC, we did a lot less hiking and outdoor adventuring that we typically do on trips. But we spent a TON outside outdoors, appreciating the natural beauty of this land- it was just more playing and frolicking and spending family time together. Since we started off with a bang on the QTC I was comfortable having a less active itinerary.

Driving in New Zealand takes way longer than you think it will. Speed limits are slow and roads are winding. I planned for us to have max drive time 4.5 hours- which easily turned into 5-6- so I'm glad I limited us.

Punakaiki cave

Okay so Picton to Punakaiki. This drive felt long. Was supposed to be 4.5 hours I think it took 6. Stopped for lunch, stopped for poopy diaper, stopped for screaming baby. The last bit of the drive had EPIC views Incredible cliffs over the beautiful ocean, similar to Highway 1 in California but supercharged kiwi style. Loved it, but didn't stop cuz the kids really needed to get out of the car for the day. We went straight to Paparoa National Park which is right near this tiny seaside town of Punakaiki. We did the famous pancake rocks hike that was very cool but even cooler was the Punakaiki cavern walk- definitely recommend that.

https://backyardtravelfamily.com/punakaiki-cavern-west-coast/

(This webpage is stellar, use it!)

Punakaiki is tiny- no gas so prepare for that. We stayed at the Punakaiki Beachfront Motel and it was a GEM! I didn't know what to expect but it was oceanfront, so nice, had a kitchenette, tons of space, 3 queen size beds. It totally exceeded expectations and I definitely recommend.

Day 10 Punakaiki--> Franz Joseph (supposed to be 3 hours, definitely felt longer but who's timing? we are on vacation!)

Hokitika gorge

We continued to make our way down the West Coast with Wanaka as our eventual destination. But to cut the drive we stopped at Franz Joseph. Adam and I had been to this area 13 years ago and did an incredible glacier hike. That wasn't the plan for this trip and the glaciers have receded such that glacier hikes are a much bigger to do than they used to be. Given that this crew (including then 7 week old Fynnie) had spent hours on an incredible glacier in Alaska less than a year prior, glaciers were not a priority for us. I know how lucky I am to be able to prioritize like that- to be able to say to my 9 and 5 year old "hey guys remember the glacier we hiked on a few months ago?"- and then drive on past a less exciting glacier.

We did stop for an awesome hike at Hokitika Gorge. The trailhead is 30 minutes off the route, 30 minutes from the town of Hokitka, but I felt worth it. It was a short (less than 1 hour though you could stay and play longer) loop trail with a swinging bridge and the chance to play in the incredible turquoise water. It reminded me a bit of Banff.

https://backyardtravelfamily.com/hokitika-gorge-short-walk-with-kids/

The place we stayed in Franz Joseph was just okay so I won't recommend.

Day 10: Drive Franz Joseph--> Wanaka (4 hours at least)

Blue pools

Beautiful drive through Mt Aspiring National Park. The two little kids were asleep at the time so we missed the Haast Visitors Center but I'd certainly recommend stopping if you can. There are multiple opportunities to get out and hike but given this was our third driving day in a row I had to be super choosey and prioritized the Blue Pools. It definitely was worth it. By the time we got to the parking lot it was late in the day - maybe 2?- and HOT so I was a bit worried that rallying the troops wasn't going to be worth it. But my husband and kids either have lots of faith in my and my research OR have learned helplessness ("if mom says we are doing it, no point in fighting") but either way in this case (and usually) it was the right thing! Definitely do this hike!

Day 11, 12: Wanaka

Patio at Lakeside

We stayed at the Lakeside Apartments in Wanaka for 3 nights. It was great- 2 bedroom, full nice kitchen, outdoor swimming pool, huge porch (we got one overlooking the pool and Lake Wanaka), across the street from the Wanaka dinosaur playground. I definitely recommend this place. There's plenty to do in Wanaka- hiking, biking, tourist stuff. We were there to rest and recoup so just had 1 event each morning and then pool and playground time in the afternoon. Very light schedule. I had lots of ideas for add'l adventures and we chose to do none of them and that was fine.

Failed hike haha

Wanaka gets hot in the afternoon in the summer. While we were there it was really too hot to play outside unless its water activities. So midday one day we went to the Puzzling World, which the kids enjoyed. Another morning we attempted a hike that the kids absolutely hated. It was pretty steep uphill, little shade and it was hot so we actually aborted about 1/3 of the way through. Which was fine. Some days you push, some days you don't. It can be hard to tell which days are which but Zooey at 9 is a pretty good barometer. Ollie at 5 still requires lots of pushing, but if Z is saying she's done then it's probably too much for the crew that day.

For other Wanaka ideas:

https://backyardtravelfamily.com/things-to-do-in-wanaka-new-zealand/

Day 13: Drive Wanaka to Milford Sound overnight cruise

We knew this would be a bit of a long driving day so we set out very early. And it was indeed a long driving day, but we made it okay with minimal stops. We did stop at the Fiordland National Park visitor's center in Te Anau for the least time efficient restroom stop ever. (One kid pees, the other doesn't have to. Adult realizes a need to pee. Change baby's diaper. Other kid realizes they need to pee. Baby poops so has second diaper change. Other adult pees. You know how that is.) The drive was of course stunning and we did have time to make a couple scenic, leg shake out stops on the drive into Milford Sound.

Our cabin

We opted for the RealNZ Milford Sound overnight cruise. Some of the other companies would not allow children, which was disappointing, but RealNZ did and it was spectacular! We checked in around 4 pm and were guided to our 2 neighboring rooms- each with two single beds, each with it's own bathroom. We were so happy to have rooms looking out on the water so that if a kid needed some time in the room the accompanying adult was able to have this spectacular view as they supervised. Everything about this was simply marvelous. Happy hour, dinner, breakfast. There was an opportunity to either kayak or go on a boat with a guide. For some reason Z wasn't feeling the paddling and I didn't think it was one of those times to push her so we went on the boat instead and it was fantastic- we were lucky enough to see a Fiordland Crested Penguin up close and learned so much about the area from the guide. Did you know Milford Sound is one of two places in the world where you can see glacier go directly into the ocean and rain forest at the same time? I actually knew where they other is- Patagonia- cuz I've been lucky enough to visit there as well. (I think I even impressed 10 yo Z with that one!)

Fiordland Crested Penguin!

Our boat

Capt'n Ollie!

The food was great (they did an awesome job of both not "othering" but also making Z feel special with her gluten free needs), there was plenty to do, I only wish the whole thing had been longer! But honestly, it was the right duration for some members of our party- little 5 yo Ollie did well but I could tell it took a toll on him to be so well behaved and contained for so long.

Day 14: Milford Sound back to Te Anau

Building fairy houses

Next we drove to Te Anau, which is the main town closest to Fiordland National Park. The town itself is plenty cute with lots of stores and good playgrounds as well as the beautiful lakefront. I opted to save a bit of money at this juncture in the trip and we stayed at the Tasman Holiday Park in Te Anau. This is part RV campground, part rental rooms and cabins. It was actually just great, perfect for what we needed. Fridge, microwave, but no sink so we did get carry out for dinner but were able to do our own breakfast and lunch from the cooler. There was a small playground in the holiday park but a bigger playground with a fantastic flying fox a block away and the beach along Lake Te Anau just a block away as well. After two days of in car and on boat "containment" the afternoon was geared toward the kids whims, which involved playgrounding a few times, probably ice cream- at this point I don't remember, but we filled the hours in an enjoyable fashion!

Flying fox!

Fatty Foo!

Lae Te Anau

Day 15: Te Anau Glow Worm Caves then drive to Queenstown

One tip that I've learned with frequent travel with babies and kids is that sometimes it's better to just book the room for an extra night. Being "homeless" during the in between on travel days sometimes adds completely unnecessary stress and it's worth the extra money to book another day on the room even if you aren't going to spent the night (if room is relatively cheap). Our plan for this day was for me to take the bigs on the RealNZ Glow Worm Cave Tour. There was an age requirement that baby Fynn didn't meet so he was going to stay back with Adam. In case of inclement weather and also just to reduce stress for the day I kept our room at the Holiday Park for this night, knowing we would be leaving until mid afternoon. The Glow Worm Cave tour was VERY cool and DEFINITELY worth doing. It was a beautiful boat ride across Lake Te Anau (the largest freshwater lake in Oceania) to get to the Aurora cave system- a 6 km cave with a river through it. There was a wonderful naturalist talk about the glow worms and then we headed down into the caves. We walked through the cave a bit, over the river, passing waterfalls and rock creations made by the water and then for the main event - a small pulley controlled boat taking us along the cave river with glow worms all around on the walls and ceiling. The experience was surreal and so peaceful. We were instructed to be silent so the only noise was the rushing of the river and the surrounding waterfalls. Cellphones and lights not allowed so the only visual was the tiny dots of the glow worms. Half an hour of this. I had to feel to see how the kids were and their heads were upturned the whole time captivated. Not a squiggle or a peep for 30 minutes. What an experience.

stock glow worm pic

Glow worms are only found in Oceania. They have evolved to make their light because it attracts insects that think they represent the night sky. When the insects fly up they get caught in the sticky web like mucous the glow worms make from the hammocks they sit in. Ollie, in particular, was very interested in the talk about the worms asking very good questions during the post cave talk.

After the tour, the excited Nelson Lilly's had a quick lunch at our room, then checked out and headed on to Queenstown, our final destination.

Day 15 and 16 Queenstown:

Skyline gondola

Our final two nights were in Queenstown since that's where we were flying out of. Also I knew that Ollie and likely also Zooey were going to LOVE the Skyline Gondola and Luge. And did they ever LOVE the luge. That was the main event of the day so we headed there right when it opened and rode many many times. So fun and absolutely recommend. It was pure joy for them and for me. The sights, the happy screams of my children. It was one those admittedly touristy things that is touristy for a damn good reason. It made me grateful to have the money to (selectively) spend on the touristy things. There are obviously so many things to do in the Queenstown area but we were winding down our trip and chose to spend the afternoon at a low key playground and on our porch, soaking up the warm weather before heading back to cold February in Chicago. We went to the luge one more time on the day of departure and then flew home again on the absolutely incredible, I'm spoiled forever, Sky Couch seats:)