Berggasthaus Meglisalp, Appenzell, Switzerland 2026

Any Trip with Mom Involves an Epic Adventure

(Kids and Adam might title this- Mom Once Again Tried to Kill Us)

What is Mom doing to us??

At least one Nelson Lilly trip a year has to have a misogi, some major challenge that has a reasonable change of "failure". Not failure in the traditional sense, as I do believe that the only failure is to not try at all, but failure in that we don't finish the distance or complete the intended miles. The only way to really push yourself (or in this case, the family), is to occasionally overreach. This year's hike (in past years we have done hikes in Alaska, hikes in New Zealand, hikes in Switzerland and the occasional bike in Sweden), will have to go down as "we didn't complete the distance" but boy did we learn a lot about working together, and pushing ourselves, and ultimately doing what was best for the team members in need. So, in that way, like all days in nature in which all members of our family are healthy and safe this was a wild success.

At the trailhead ready to go!

Backstory: Switzerland has an incredible mountain hut and hotel system- so many in so many different regions of the country, wonderfully signed with beautiful scenery. We had done the absolutely incredible Mt Falhourn hike in the Bernese Oberland Region 3 years prior with 15 mo Fynnie in the baby carrier, 5 yo Ollie and 10 yo Zooey. HIGHLY RECOMMEND. That hike was considerably longer (11k) and considerably more elevation gain (900 m) so I figured we were well within our ability level to do this 6 k, 650 m gain hike. Maybe we would have been on a different day ;)

Intended plan:

Single track with a
handholding toddler

Day 1: Leave from St Gallen, drop luggage at train station to send ahead (I recommend Revier Santispark as a good place to get organized the night before- extensive included water park good for all ages, good restaurant, full grocery store across the street, bus drops off right at hotel). One hour train to Wassaraun train station (about an hour trip) then walk 6 k, 650 m elevation gain to Berggasthaus Meglisalp

Day 2: Walk Berggasthaus Meglisalp to Berggasthaus Plattenbodil 6-8 k 330-500 m elevation gain depending on route

Day 3: walk 3 k down to Brulisau and carry on with trip, reunite with our luggage at next resort

However, there was a heat wave and we read that it was above 80 even up in the mountains. This can be pretty damn hot hiking weather. Usually it's a touch cooler at altitude so 80 even though high had us a bit worried. We debated bagging the whole thing but when I was able to determine that most of the route was shaded in the AM we decided to have as early a start as possible. This changed our luggage plan as St. Gallen didn't open until 7:30 for luggage drop, still an hour from the trail head. (Note: should have dropped luggage the night before. For those who don't know the SBB train system can typically take your luggage and deliver it to any other train station two days later for a very nominal fee <$20). Instead, we brought our luggage and attempted to send it ahead at the tiny Appenzall train station. Unfortunately, despite the internet telling us we could, our luggage could not get where we needed it to go fast enough, likely because of the rural nature of this particular station. So, cue Val, with 4 kids running around in a thankfully shady courtyard trying to create a pivot with one bar of cell service, fighting back tears knowing this was some damned teachable moment, set a good example situation for the kids.

Thankfully, as I waited for the internet to load something, anything, I thought to ask if we could just leave our luggage in Appenzell and come back for it a few days later. Inconvenient but at least we wouldn't be bailing just due to poorly planned logistics on my end. That plan was a go and I think after seeing my sadness at the potential bail (or maybe realizing there was no way out so being resigned haha), the kids seemed to rally and there were no complaints as we got on the 10 minute train ride to the Wassaraun station and the start of the hike.

So we ended up starting out about an hour later than we wanted to, but around 9 am nothing too crazy. Howwevvverr, given that we had set forth at 6, this means little 4 month old Ainsely hadn't slept yet and she was OVERTIRED. Screaming her head off in a way she rarely does. Poor little thing. I knew she was simply tired so I wasn't worried about her per se but you feel so bad when your baby is crying like that and yeah, I did want to be sure she calmed down and was herself before we committed to a remote mountain hut for the night.

My attempts to nurse and console Ainsley made the first hour of the hike slow as hell. Since I wasn't 100% sure she was ok (I was 99.9% sure), I didn't want the rest of the crew going too too far ahead. This resulted in Z (13) and O (8) having to significantly slow their hiking speed and this really really hurt Ollie's morale. He is a solid hiker and can now keep up with Zooey which is a joy to see. But all the stopping and starting during an activity he has decided he hates, made it really hard for him. Between Ains, and Ollie, and Adam and I knowing we were really pushing Fynn (4 yo, who did not complain at all, wow that kid!), we had at least 4 stops where we truly truly debated turning back. But we never did. And eventually we got far enough that turning back would make for an even harder day than finishing. Part of the deal to appease Ollie (and maybe ourselves), was that we would head back down the next day and make it a two day hike. This felt like the right call as we were going up, really unsure of ourselves.

Nursing break on single track trail

To be clear, at no point were we unsafe. We had plenty of water, snacks, a first aid kid, a Garmin inreach and global rescue insurance. Also we happened to have cell service. There were plenty of other folks on the trail and we had hours and hours of daylight. The only actual safety concern was how narrow the trail was in spots and needing to guide Fynnie as his legs tired so Adam and I traded off this very physical job.

Meglisalp first view

I was really acutely doubting my parenting on this hike. 3 of my kids were struggling. (Though once Ains fell asleep the rest was a non issue for her). I felt bad for Ollie, but I knew he was just in his head and that he was physically fine, I just didn't know how to turn him around. And Fynn, oh amazing Fynn. This hike was definitely too much for a flat lander 4 yo old. He was for sure the youngest doing this hike on his own two feet (there were plenty of toddlers in carriers). His legs were jelly, we was starting to lose his balance, but his attitude the entire time was amazing. He said he was tired, he wished we were there already, and noted it was too hard but then he would gamely continue on and comment on the cows, the bugs, the rocks. Incredible. Z very wisely didn’t admit until later that the hike was easy for her. I’m glad it was! She was such a cheerleader for her brothers and for us, urging us on when she could see that Adam and I truly weren’t sure what call we should make re: bail or continue

Eventually after 6 hours (meant to be 2.5 for adults), we reached the incredible Berggasthaus Meglisalp. Instantly on arrival the kids were happy and excited as could be. We all were. Meglisalp is a collection of about 10 buildings- the guest house, a church, the private homes of the two families who have run the place for 6 generations and the cow and goat farm buildings.

"BUNKER BEDS!!"

Meglisalp was first documented in 1071 AD, so medieval times, as a farm. In 1898 the originally guest house was torn down and the current building took its place. You can see the most recent generations of the two farming families at work on the farm- they are the workers at the guest house and the workers at this functioning farm. It’s the ultimate free range parenting. The toddlers and young kids were running around jumping in and out of carts of milk as their mom moved them from the milling room to the guesthouse kitchen and storage, hopping on their dad's lap as he drove the small tractor. The grandparent generation were there actively managing the guest house and serving food chatting with all. Incredibly cool, what a place to walk to, to go to bed in, to wake up in. The kids could feel how special it was ….but also want to approve any future hikes I plan in the region, or let’s face it, anywhere in the world. But they were all for another Appenzell guest house hike- just maybe a cable car can take care of some of the elevation?

So happy to arrive!

We did pivot and skipped day two and three of the hike. We went back down the next morning. This was because Fynn is 4. He had missed too many naps and was too down in sleep to ask more of his body. This was the right call. I was too ambitious slash hadn’t prepared him well enough for this- admittedly hard to do in Illinois- slash we should have made more use of our toddler carrier and packed differently to do so. But the two days we were out there were epic and are entering the Nelson Lilly annals for sure.

In terms of recommendations, would I recommend this hike? Admittedly the views were not as epic as the Falhourn hike or even many of the easy day hikes in the Bernese Oberland region. However, the Berggasthaus Meglisalp was incredibly cool, with a lot more story behind it and quite incredible to see. The kids preferred Meglisalp to Falhourn as a destination but Falhourn to Meglisalp as a hike. Also, we skipped day 2 so perhaps the scenery would have become even cooler. So, yes, I recommend a hut to hut in Appenzell and I would be happy to do one again. In a few years. When my family has forgotten about this one. And maybe has longer legs. And yeah, maybe that cable car to start us off on a easier foot, haha. But, let's admit it, recreational suffering is my jam:)